The ‘Stand’ cue is an interesting, rarely-taught tool which can be useful when you want your dog to effectively do the opposite of ‘sit’, but don’t necessarily want her to come to you. This teaches the dog to rise from a sitting or lying down position, but not to move after standing. Whether you need your dog to stand up and stay still for a medical inspection, as part of a game, or to ensure his safety in various situations, the ‘Stand’ cue is also a great way to work on your dog’s impulse control and communication skills.
The command most people use to teach their dog to lie down is simply one word, “down” or depending on the situation “Go lie down”. However, the latter is used mostly at home to get the dog to go somewhere else before he lies down. The most important thing to remember is that you are not just teaching your dog to lie down, you are teaching him a vital skill that will keep him out of trouble and out of the way of other people he is around. It is also a good command for him to know when you take him out in public places such as outdoor cafés and parks.
With your dog in a sit position, lure him into a stand position by using a treat lure underneath his nose. The treat should move a few inches away from the dog’s nose and be at the height where the dog’s nose would be if the dog were already standing. When your dog rises his back legs into a stand position, say “yes” to indicate that your dog did the motion correctly. Then give the treat to your dog while your dog is still standing. Say your release word (“ok”) and walk the dog a few steps so the dog understands that he can move his feet.
Find a quiet place to practice and get your clicker, treats and dog. If you don’t have a clicker you can simply say the word “good” or “yes” instead of clicking. Bring the treat (lure) over the dog’s head so that he looks up and back and automatically sits down to see the treat. When his bum hits the floor click and treat (C/T)
Once the pup progresses, I can begin to lengthen the duration of holding each position but for the beginning stage, I just want to get him transitioning smoothly.
Take a look at how this is done. Notice I keep hold of the treat to lure and I don’t release it until the pup has achieved the correct position. It is important to reward the behavior when either the butt touches the ground (Sit) the belly touches the ground (Down) or the dog is standing still on all four paws (Stand).
o train your dog to come when called, start on leash in a quiet area. Back away from your dog while enthusiastically telling her to “come!” Only give the command once, but be enthusiastic, and keep your body language relaxed and open. You can show your dog a treat to encourage her to head your way. Once she starts towards you, say “yes!” (or click) and reward her with a treat.
Begin by placing your dog in a sitting position, and then place a treat above your dog’s head. Next, you move your hand upward and toward your dog’s back. The goal is to get your dog’s front legs off the ground. As soon as this happens, reward your dog immediately. Continue to reward your dog while gradually moving the treat higher and higher.
I found that looking for alternative ways to connect with Sally outside of food, such as play, life rewards, and affection, deepened our relationship. I also found that thinking about Sally’s behavior and our quality of life more holistically, outside of simple obedience cues, helped me address some overwhelming issues that I wasn’t sure how to tackle at first, such as getting and keeping her attention in distracting situations.
As fosters (new adopters will also find this training information very useful), we want to make our dogs as attractive as possible to potential adopters. How do we do that? Since we can’t alter their looks, breed, size or sex, the only thing we can do is add to our dog’s skill sets. After housebreaking, I believe the most important thing a dog can have is a little bit of obedience training! You are probably thinking, “Now, why would I want to put all that effort into a dog that’s not going to be here very long?”
Don’t ignore the unwanted behavior. Remove the rewards for unwanted behavior instead. It turns out that if you ignore unwanted behavior, you may accidentally be rewarding it. You should instead remove rewards for unwanted behavior-which is very different. For instance, most clients complain that they are ignoring their dog when he jumps but they aren’t getting the results they want. They don’t realize that the dog does not perceive their actions as removal of attention.